The well inspection: Living in the country means no city water connections, instead the water comes from a private well dug into the ground of the property, which we are entirely responsible for. We plan on replacing it with a new well in the future, but if it passes the water test we`ll keep it for awhile. That`ll save us around $8,000-$10,000...for now.
The seller had to put a new pump in the well, because the agent couldn't get the well running, which was a requirement in our purchase agreement, and for the house inspection. The company that put the well in said that the output/flow rate seems good - even though they could not get the water in the house running, only a spigot on the outside. So instead of spending money on as inspection, we'll hopefully be able to get the report from them. That'll save about $125-$175
The water test: We are getting the well water tested for, at the top of the list, excessive nitrates, coliform, E.Coli, in addition to other things. If it passes that it will be tested for GPO and DRO (Petroleum Hydrocarbons in Petrol and Diesel) due to the vehicle dismantling business that the previous owner had stone throw from the well. $110 basic test/$145 for the GPO & DRO
- National Primary Drinking Water Regulations - Drinking Water Contaminates: http://water.epa.gov/drink/contaminants/index.cfm
Some of the things they inspect for include: operation status and whether or not the system is a to the public/environmental health; condition of the septic tank, including age of the tank and the thickness of grease/scum layer; condition of the soil absorption system, health of the leachfield, including any signs of hydraulic failure. $175
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| Image Source: https://www.thenaturalhome.com/septic.html |
The house inspection: The house inspection is probably the most straightforward, as most people get them. $275. They will inspect:
Ridge peak sagging.
Roof sagging between the rafters and trusses.
Signs of deteriorated asphalt shingles, likes curling, warping, broken edges, rounded corners, etc.
Loose flashing near chimney, roof-to-wall connection or etc.
Wooden roof deck rotting under the last row of shingles.
Visible roof vents.
Chimney
Cracks or breaks in masonry cap.
Flaking or missing bricks and missing mortar.
Leaks.
Soffits and Facia
Loose or missing sections
Any visible rot or paint problems.
Gutters and Downspouts
Proper gutters slopes and downspouts.
Rust or peeling paint.
Leaks or loose/missing/sagging sections.
Downspouts extended away from the foundations.
Exterior Wall Coverings - the house has a crappy stucco job over old wooden shingles. The whole thing needs to be resided.
Missing mortar.
Bricks flaking or cracking.
Lose, missing or rotten siding/deteriorated paint.
Exterior walls bowed, bulged or leaning?
Windows and Doors - they all need to be replaced
Problems with paint/caulking, and rotted wood.
Gaps around doors and window framing.
Porches and Decks
Cracking, broken or flaking masonry.
Paint problems, rotted wood, and contact with ground.
Settlement or separation from the house.
Inspect the underside if possible.
Foundations
Cracks, flaking or damaged masonry.
Water markings and efflorescence (whitish, chalky substance).
Bowing, bulging or other irregularities.
Soft mortar issues.
Lot
Grade slope from the house.
Areas of settling next to/near the foundation.
Grade compared to neighboring properties.
Basement - there are a couple areas of concern where the basement is partially open to the elements.
Evidence of water penetration such as stains, mildew/odors, efflorescence.
Floors
Deteriorated of floor coverings or cracked flooring.
Water staining or other damage.
Evidence of sloping or sagging.
Walls - all being ripped out.
Check that the windows and doors work.
Walls appear straight vertically and horizontally.
Cracked or loose plaster.
Stains, physical damage or previous repair evidence.
Drywall seams or nails showing.
Ceilings - all being ripped down
Cracks in the plaster or loose, sagging plaster.
Stains, mechanical damage or evidence of previous repair.
Seams or nails showing.
Bathroom and Kitchens - being completely gutted and remodelled.
Fixtures are secure.
Cracks in the fixtures?
Condition of the tiles and caulking in the tub/shower area.
Faucets working or leaking. Sufficient water pressure.
Staining and rot under the counter-tops
Operation of the cabinet doors and drawers.
Electro-Mechanical Considerations
Type, style and age and operation status of heating & cooling systems.
Water supply piping and drains inspection for visible rust and corrosion.
Size, age and operation status of electrical service.
Grounded outlets.
Visible wiring in good condition.
Noticeable upgrades.
- To get the furnace running we need to pre-rent a large propane tank, as the house is heated with gas.
Looking over the list it seems obvious that the inspection won't uncover much we don't already know, the key things are in the Electro-Mechanical considerations in bold blue. Those are items that will mean we try to get them to agree on a reduced price from the one we agreed on, if they don't work.
Things not covered during a home inspection:
Asbestos - there's not much for insulation in the house, and the floor coverings are fairly new, so the asbestos danger is low.
Radon Gas - n/a
Lead Paint - we signed a waiver, and it's unlikely to be in the walls because they have been partially redone.
Toxic Mold - there IS mold in the bathroom, on over half the walls, but we plan on gutting all the walls in the house, so it's not a major issue.
Pest Control - there are probably mice. It's been empty for a couple years. But with very little insulation there isn't a lot of material to burrow into.
*Items in red are things we already know have issues.
Roof - needs to be re-shingled entirelyRidge peak sagging.
Roof sagging between the rafters and trusses.
Signs of deteriorated asphalt shingles, likes curling, warping, broken edges, rounded corners, etc.
Loose flashing near chimney, roof-to-wall connection or etc.
Wooden roof deck rotting under the last row of shingles.
Visible roof vents.
Chimney
Cracks or breaks in masonry cap.
Flaking or missing bricks and missing mortar.
Leaks.
Soffits and Facia
Loose or missing sections
Any visible rot or paint problems.
Gutters and Downspouts
Proper gutters slopes and downspouts.
Rust or peeling paint.
Leaks or loose/missing/sagging sections.
Downspouts extended away from the foundations.
Exterior Wall Coverings - the house has a crappy stucco job over old wooden shingles. The whole thing needs to be resided.
Missing mortar.
Bricks flaking or cracking.
Lose, missing or rotten siding/deteriorated paint.
Exterior walls bowed, bulged or leaning?
Windows and Doors - they all need to be replaced
Problems with paint/caulking, and rotted wood.
Gaps around doors and window framing.
Porches and Decks
Cracking, broken or flaking masonry.
Paint problems, rotted wood, and contact with ground.
Settlement or separation from the house.
Inspect the underside if possible.
Foundations
Cracks, flaking or damaged masonry.
Water markings and efflorescence (whitish, chalky substance).
Bowing, bulging or other irregularities.
Soft mortar issues.
Lot
Grade slope from the house.
Areas of settling next to/near the foundation.
Grade compared to neighboring properties.
Basement - there are a couple areas of concern where the basement is partially open to the elements.
Evidence of water penetration such as stains, mildew/odors, efflorescence.
Floors
Deteriorated of floor coverings or cracked flooring.
Water staining or other damage.
Evidence of sloping or sagging.
Walls - all being ripped out.
Check that the windows and doors work.
Walls appear straight vertically and horizontally.
Cracked or loose plaster.
Stains, physical damage or previous repair evidence.
Drywall seams or nails showing.
Ceilings - all being ripped down
Cracks in the plaster or loose, sagging plaster.
Stains, mechanical damage or evidence of previous repair.
Seams or nails showing.
Bathroom and Kitchens - being completely gutted and remodelled.
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| The bathroom with mouldy corners. |
Cracks in the fixtures?
Condition of the tiles and caulking in the tub/shower area.
Faucets working or leaking. Sufficient water pressure.
Staining and rot under the counter-tops
Operation of the cabinet doors and drawers.
Electro-Mechanical Considerations
Type, style and age and operation status of heating & cooling systems.
Water supply piping and drains inspection for visible rust and corrosion.
Size, age and operation status of electrical service.
Grounded outlets.
Visible wiring in good condition.
Noticeable upgrades.
- To get the furnace running we need to pre-rent a large propane tank, as the house is heated with gas.
Looking over the list it seems obvious that the inspection won't uncover much we don't already know, the key things are in the Electro-Mechanical considerations in bold blue. Those are items that will mean we try to get them to agree on a reduced price from the one we agreed on, if they don't work.
Things not covered during a home inspection:
Asbestos - there's not much for insulation in the house, and the floor coverings are fairly new, so the asbestos danger is low.
Radon Gas - n/a
Lead Paint - we signed a waiver, and it's unlikely to be in the walls because they have been partially redone.
Toxic Mold - there IS mold in the bathroom, on over half the walls, but we plan on gutting all the walls in the house, so it's not a major issue.
Pest Control - there are probably mice. It's been empty for a couple years. But with very little insulation there isn't a lot of material to burrow into.
This is going to be a big project. A big wonderful time consuming back breaking, tear and blood soaked project.
We've been going over design ideas, paint colours, tub and shower designs, appliance options, layout ideas, furniture wishes, etc. with James...and can already tell it's going to be....SO.FUN. (heavy on the sarcasm)
Next week will be Step Two: Haggle on the price, make the big payment and move!
I'm excited for you both but know you have a huge project on your hands. You're going to make something awesome from this. I can tell.
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